Here’s another reflective post for
you. Last Sunday I went to mass with my family. Catholic mass that is. They
attend the church that is next to my bus stop called La Concepción, presumably
for the virgin conception of Jesus. I always find it interesting to attend a
church I am not accustomed to. The practices are always different, the people
are different, and the attitudes and beliefs are different. It’s a lot harder
to understand the beliefs of the group when you can’t really understand what
they are saying, so I got a lot of observation in on the practices and people.
Let me tell you, it’s a little unnerving to see and hear a huge group of people
saying the same thing at the same time when you can’t understand it. I think if
I had heard one person say the prayers, I could have understood, but it was
impossible for me to pick out more than a couple words here and there when
everyone was speaking at once. I also had a hard time understanding the homily
because the preacher used a microphone and didn’t speak very clearly.
The practices of a church really are
rather important. I tried to follow what everyone was doing, but it’s
difficult, especially without a Catholic background. I had to stand or sit in
silence for most of the service because there was very little written material
which I could have used to follow along. People just know what to say or do and
when to say it or do it. I don’t.
All in all, the service wasn’t that
different from Catholic services I have been to in the states. Here, they have
no songbooks or hymnals, everyone just knows the songs and sings along, and
there weren’t bibles in the pews (I don’t think I’d ever been to a church
without bibles in the pews before), but the order of events and the things they
did were basically the same.
This probably isn’t a bad time to
dive into my observations of religion here.
As many of you probably know,
Ecuador is Catholic. That is not an exaggeration. I think the statistic is 95%
Catholic. For this reason the country has many laws against various forms of
post-incident birth control and the sex ed. here isn’t exactly great. But those
issues are for a different discussion.
Even though the population is
Catholic, many are not very devout practitioners. There are the people who go
to church every Sunday and will talk to anyone about religion, even before
soccer (which is saying something here), all the way down to those who have
maybe been to church 5 times in the last 6 years but still believe in all the
doctrines and ideologies. Then there are the people who don’t identify as
Catholic per say, but they are still Ecuadorian, so they know all about the
saints and the religious practices of the other 95% of the people in their
country. The Catholic religion here is woven into every-day life. There are
saints and crosses all over the place and references are made to biblical things
and no one really thinks twice about it. And they understand the references,
which totally fly over my head when they are in reference to something uniquely
Catholic. What really gets me is the saints. There are very few that I know
anything about, and their names change in Spanish anyway, which just leaves me
lost.
There’s also an interesting mix or
religions here (I think you’d call it syncretism, but I’m not sure since I only
really know the word for it in Spanish…). Basically, in the more indigenous
populations, the people have held onto some of their pre-conquest beliefs, but
they are some of the most devout Catholics here. It’s a strange mix. The most
personal experience I’ve had with this syncretism is with the stories that I
collected as part of my Lit. class project (By the way, I should be able to
post a translated version of one of the stories some time in the next couple
weeks). One of the stories we were told was about three large animals that were
“captured” to prevent them from eating the people, but at the end of the world
they will be released to eat the people again. Clearly an old story believed by
the people, kind of like the story of the Apocalypse. Except that before these
animals are released, God will save all the righteous believers and take them
to heaven. Huh? It was just such a surprise for me to hear that mix of beliefs.
Especially since the story seemed to be completely finished before that bit was
added.
Something I found interesting
though, was the responses of my classmates in my Quichua class to the question “What
religion are you?” I thought for sure most of them would answer “Catholic,” but
it turns out about half of them identify as Agnositc. I kind of wonder if that’s
partly due to the fact that they are all college students and, in my experience
anyway, college students are much less likely to be “believers” than any other
portion of society. But, once again, that’s a topic for another discussion.
And that’s all folks. Until next
time anyway!
I feel like this might have been a
confusing post, so if you have questions feel free to post them and I will try
to answer them.
I know when I was in Mexico, specifically Oaxaca, a lot of the Catholic population was afraid of the pre-conquest religions. They kept talking fearfully about a man in the next village over who was a shaman. Any like that going on in Ecuador?
ReplyDeleteActually, no. Here there's a much greater acceptance of the former religions. People who are not indigenous will even go to the indigenous healers at times to solve medical problems that can't seem to be solved in other ways. Of course, the yachakuks (as they are called in Quichua) use pictures of the Catholic saints in their healing practices, so that might help the situation. I think there is a bit of scorn for the indigenous beliefs, but not too much, and definitely no fear.
ReplyDeleteI was brought up Catholic at a time when the mass was said in latin. As a child I didn't understand a word of it. It was like chanting a mantra. To this day I still remember some of the responses. I can relate to sitting through a service where you don't understand the language.
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